Starting the Tricky Bits - microBootlegger Sport - E17

Starting to fit the ends of strips

Music: Ibiza Dream - Chris Haugen

so once again there was no ice in the
river and at time nice calm warning like
getting out for paddle playing today is
to start stripping up the second side of
the bottom working up from the waterline
to the chine line and hopefully he'll
get all those tips from the waterline to
the chine on and trim out the chine
today we'll see how far we get first
couple strips starting at the waterline
will need to be fitted into the length
of the kayak up above that well I'll be
able to run a couple over long and then
trim them back when I trim to the chine
line one thing you may notice when I try
to trim to a line such as a water line
of the chine line of the keel line is I
don't try and nail it the first time I
can't I know enough about how I work to
know that I'm just not that accurate so
I try and ease in on it I'll mark the
line where I want to cut then cut a
little proud of it then trying through
that line up and then once I got
everything straight and good now I try
and ease in exactly where I want the
line by doing that I can get very
accurate to the line it's not that it's
all that critical that I'm accurate to
the line but
later on as we're trying to fit the
strips it does become much more critical
but then actually accurate to that line
so I get a good tight fit so the idea of
easing in on the line is something I do
a lot I cut everything a little bit long
give myself some room to screw up and
hopefully by the time I get to where I
want everything figured out
when we left off at the water line here
a few episodes ago we started just
stripping on one side we left this
unbelled so the first step here is going
to be making sure the bevel here is
correct then we'll start adding strips
it's going to be different about this
one is the strip that comes in on this
side has to meet up right here with the
existing strip on the other side first
let's get to beveling that'll be done
with the Robo belt as we get up into the
tight quarters of the ends here the Robo
bevel doesn't actually fit down tight
against the forms so we can no longer
use that up in the tight areas once we
get past about here where the strips
aren't interfering with the tool resting
against the forms which should be fine
up here in the end where the Robo bevel
doesn't reach will resort to using the
tied rabbet plane and we're going to try
and hold the tool perpendicular to the
form above it trying to shave this down
so get a tight seam right in here and
again a taxi
so we've got the Belleville good now
it's going grabbing the first trip for
this side so the achieves the mirrored
illusion that we're trying to get with
the book matching we need to make sure
that the length of these strips ends up
at the same place so longitudinally we
want the any grain on this new strip to
match whatever grains happening on this
strip so that means lengthwise we could
adjust this so the same location on this
strip corresponds to the same location
on that strip so relative to the forms
we see these marks here over here we've
got similar marks we want to end up
making these marks right here match up
longitudinally with those marks there so
bring it down here and now this line
right here is right aligned with that
line right there relative to the form
this is where we want the strip to end
up so I'm going to make some marks
across here so between this strip and
the existing strip so we can
re-establish that alignment here's the
mark that's on that side here's the
Mark's other marks and so I just made a
couple marks across here to be sure we
have that aligned and I'll do it
several locations down the length of the
boat just to make sure it's good I'll
test the dry fit of this all the way
along the length that looks good
let's trip back in place up here at the
bow we've got this trip coming in from
the other sides that's a mirror image of
this one right there and in order to
make this fit obviously we need to make
it fit up against that so we want this
snuck right down in between here and
there so the first thing we want to do
is just make sure we have an alignment
mark up here where it's close to where
we're working so I want those marks to
line up right there down here at the
stern we've got a little bit easier
problem this strip is just going to run
p.m. and so we only need to fit one end
and also looking at this this right here
is where the chine line ended up when we
trimmed it down from this side so the
next strip up doesn't need to come down
and fit with this one either if we just
look at that line there there's second
strip up from the waterline ends right
in here someplace so if we make sure the
next strip up on this side and in a
similar location maybe a little farther
just to be sure we know we'll be good
and so we don't need to try and fit up
against this center line up there yet
but for this first strip we'll just run
it off the end and so we only need to
fit the bow in so it's only at the
balland that we need to worry about the
fit so again we want to end up with
these marks lined up we could cut off
anything that's excess here and we'll
end up making a taper so what I like to
do is just give myself some room to
screw up so I'm gonna slide this whole
thing back an inch or so then cut it off
like there so the strips going to end up
in here but we need to take the top off
and we've got to put a bevel on it so
this comes out to a bit of a point at
this end it's about that wide and the
taper comes back to about here so we can
mark that taper now we'll cut off that
excess material put on my apron so I
have easy access to my apron plane now I
want to take and just try and get close
to that line there
so this trips gonna be something like
that but we have this bevel on here the
strip is at a bit of an angle and this
face there is vertical now if I pull
this strip the new strip at
approximately the angle it's going to
need to be when it's done and I hold my
plane at about vertically I've created
the angle that I'm looking to have this
mate so again with this held at this
angle it's gonna meet up against a
vertical surface so if it's going in at
this angle and it's good to go against a
vertical surface and I hold my plane
vertically and now I mean hold keep this
strip at the angle I'm looking for and
keep the plane vertical and now plane
away at the side until I get a sharp
edge on that now we can try to fit
it's not bad for a first effort I see
we've got a little bit of gunk there
holding things apart I'm gonna get in
here clean out some of the glue so from
this angle you can see it's a little bit
tight at the tip or the toe a little bit
loose at the heel here and the angle and
it's held in here it's a little bit open
at the top so again I'm gonna hold my
plane a little bit open at the top and
I'm gonna take my first strokes at the
tip and then work back a little bit so
I've since it was touching at the tip
first I'm removing more material at the
tip at the toe trying to maintain that
same angle and till I get it
cutting the full length of the bevel and
we try to fit again that's quite nice a
little open space below here and
normally this would be taken care of
with the roll bevel it's so tight up
here that the Robo belleville doesn't
work and even the side rabbet plane has
trouble getting all the way into the
ends there I could try and clean that
out with a chisel but a little bit more
accurate would be to do what we did
along the chine line on the first side
when we were trying to make our own hand
bevel you know so freehand that bevel
I'm seeing how wide that gap is on that
side I'll try to match that gap like
little tricky doing this in the monitor
I think I bail it the wrong way
nope that's better it's not perfect yet
but it's definitely tighter up in there
so it needs a little bit more right out
here at the end it looks good it's a
little bit of overhang of this strip so
it's casting a shadow there but it's
pretty tight but the thing is back here
I've got a discrepancy between the mark
on the boat and the mark on the new
strip so this whole strip needs to move
forward about 3/4 of an inch
this needs to go forward about 3/4 of an
inch but we've established a good
baseline of what this bevel is supposed
to be so we're we don't need to figure
that out we just need to try and
maintain that taking our plane holding
it flat against that surface do a full
stroke another full stroke another full
stroke this plane has to be sharp
because we want to be cutting the same
amount off this whole face from start to
finish and if you've got a dull plane
it'll skip over stuff and this tip will
start to bend away and you won't be
getting as a uniform thickness off that
taper we want nice uniform shavings so
that was just three passes now you look
back here we're at about half an inch we
still have a nice tight fit but there's
only a half inch gap left there so we'll
do the same again full length
so three passes so I've taken off the
thickness of the shaving three times
that's pretty pretty good we're down to
about a quarter-inch here even though I
had to take off three quarters of an
inch in length since this is on such a
taper doing six strokes of the plane
here moved it half an inch whatever the
thickness of this shaving is times six
was all it took to move this lengthwise
by half an inch so we'll try another
three passes it's almost there I'm
starting to open up a little bit of a
gap at the top it's very thin but we're
going to try for a perfectly tight gap
there see I'm opening up a slight gap
right along that top edge so again lift
my plane hold it tight against that
surface tight flat against that surface
then open it up just a skosh so it's
tighter at the bottom than it is at the
top take another pass likewise we've got
like a sixteenth left to go I can get a
little bit tighter
one more
there's really no gap up at this seam up
there and you can make these line up
there looks good and tight along this
edge opening up a little bit on the
bottom there so I'll start flat and then
open it up a little bit that's pretty
darn good
so now if I clue it in place it should
all end up starting out with this grain
matching and if we start out at the
right place the grain on this side
should match the grain on that side
pretty much exactly get the mark lined
up and secure it in place no that's
pretty nice
so we will come through and put some hot
milk loose stitches here so we can take
the tape off and then we can take the
clamps off and if we need to add a
little bit more hot melt to glue the
strips to the forms we'll do that and
then we'll add the next strip
so with the next strip placed up for a
dry fit we're gonna want to end up
making it a line like that back here at
the stern I've got my reference lines
and I'm also looking at the second strip
up from the waterline second strip up
from the water line from on this side
ends right about there
so if I mark it right there it should be
plenty long enough to cover up to the
chine cut and so we'll lop it off right
there and so it fits in there and we
don't need to worry about tapering this
in that will just run free and there
should be plenty of room there so up
here at the bowel we want it to line up
like that but I want to give myself a
little room for error
so I'll slide the whole strip back an
inch or so and now it's going to end up
getting cut off there at a point right
there cut it off now if I hold this
strip up here it comes to about this
point so bring it back down to the point
and if we mark that that's how long the
tape is going to be so we can take our
high-tech straightedge here never have a
lack of straight edges when your strip
building that's the taper we want well
now take and get rid of the excess you
know see there's easy stuff to cut
there's no reason to bring this over to
a bandsaw to cut it you know this
jackknife I think my grandmother gave
this to me when I was 16 it's made a lot
of boats keep it sharp it works great
and so I got that trimmed down and now
this one again if we think about the
angle it's going to fit in there
something like that and we maintain that
angle and again hold the block plane
vertically we should end up
with the shape it's just dropped right
into that space so I'm not even
bothering to go to the line yet I just
want to see if their tips the more I
leave here the more room for error I
have so you know here's a first fit and
it seems a little bit high on this edge
it's overhanging a bit and so that
usually indicates that I need to flatten
the bevel this way a little bit so have
it flat against the bevel like this and
then I'm going to tip it up alright so
that's a nice fit right there we're
about an inch and a half in length
how's money I'm getting a little gap in
here open this up a little bit
shave away at the bottom and that's a
little bit better we'll tweak that a
little bit more once we get it in there
so again we've got about an inch and a
half or inch and a quarter to go there
so hold it flat against the surface that
we've decided was a good tight fit and
take full length strokes all the way
down the length this tip so flexible
we'll probably end up having to take a
couple extra passes at the tip
right the fits still good we've come
down to about an inch here sometimes
this little nipping that the and can be
hard I just break it off I'm gonna work
on this bevel a little bit on this side
to close up that gap there tops of good
fit side here we still have a little bit
of a gap in back to the out here there
are other three-quarters of an inch to
go that's nice and tight top and bottom
so we still have some length adjustment
to do
it's starting to open up a little bit
along the top here you know the tip is a
little bit low and back here it's a
little bit tight so I'm going to take
one pass that doesn't quite reach the
tip one or two passes just about there
get a 3/16 of an inch
I think I'm gonna call that good now one
thing to be aware of this is the second
strip on this side and it ends right
there you can see here's this was the
line for trimming to the chine line and
then this is the next strip after that
so you have I have a narrow strip here
as the second strip up from the
waterline so what that indicates is this
one's going to end up being narrower
here so when I go to glue this I'm not
going to glue it all the way up along
this edge I'll only glue up to like
there just to make sure it's glued in
that area right there and to pull this
tape as tight as I can to keep that seam
as tight as we can get
so again counting up from the water line
one two three you can see that the third
strip and somewhere up in here so we
don't need to worry about this third
strip over here one two three hitting
here we can end it before that so if we
ended up in here someplace
we'll be golden we'll have plenty of
room so as long as we end it someplace
past here up there someplace we're good
you remembering the sorting of the
strips I had a circle on this side of
the boat and so I'm making sure all the
circles are still out on this side I
didn't do my dry fit yet so I can see I
need some Robo beveling but while I have
the strip in hand let's just go ahead
and cut this off to length so somewhere
up in here down here at the stern it's
in a couple forms forward so I'll take
this and drop it off in there someplace
up here where the Robo bevel is too big
to fit in this space I need to end up
doing a little hand beveling on this
strip to get a tight fit right there so
once again we're looking how wide is
that gap and we hold the plane at a
similar gap
so this should be the last strip and
I've got four strips up this side only
four strips up this side and I was
hoping to get this marked out and
trimmed off before the end of the day
but I'm running out of time so we'll get
this one strip on and see how it looks
all right that's it for today I'm gonna
leave the tape on and the clamps on so
I'm not going to bother with the hot and
I'll clue
make sure that's turned off and tomorrow
we'll come back and trim that off
through it up and start working across
the bottom so that's all I got today I
was hoping to get the chine done but
believe this throwing up for tomorrow
hopefully we'll get that done and then
I'll start working on closing out the
stripping across from the chine to the
Kia line that'll slow down a little bit
just because I'm going to be fitting
each end of the strips and so it has to
be a little bit more precise I'm no
longer just running strips off the end
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