Epoxy

Nick and Bill sand and apply the first coat of varnish to the Petrel sea kayak kit from Chesapeake Light Craft. Nick shares tips on using coarse sandpaper for leveling, custom tools for tight spaces, and efficient varnishing techniques, emphasizing the importance of working quickly and maintaining a wet edge.

Nick and Bill tackle the crucial sanding and leveling process on their Petrel Play SG sea kayak project. Using coarse sandpaper and specialized tools, they methodically work to remove high spots and create a smooth, even surface across the hull and deck. Careful attention is paid to areas like drips, bumps, and overlapping joints to ensure a level foundation for the upcoming fill coat. With the sanding complete, Nick demonstrates his technique for applying the fill coat, involving distributing, leveling, and tipping off the epoxy for a flawless finish. As they wrap up, they discuss the remaining steps, inching ever closer to the final sanding and varnishing stages of this intricate kayak build.

Nick and Bill continue building a Petrel Play sea kayak kit, focusing on applying fiberglass tape to the inside seams. They carefully prepare and saturate the tape with epoxy, then meticulously apply it to the seams, using a brush on a stick to reach tight spaces. The process is challenging but necessary, and they discuss alternative methods people have tried.

Nick and Bill continue working on the Petrel Play sea kayak kit. They remove dams, drill holes, trim fiberglass parts, fill holes with epoxy, and start assembling the skeg box components. Nick changes his plan for installing the coaming lip, discussing how properly sequencing operations is critical on a complex build to avoid making future steps more difficult. The engaging dialogue covers many small tasks while emphasizing fluid adaptation of the build plan.

The video covers several tasks related to installing a retractable skeg. Including constructing the skeg box that will house the skeg, shaping the plywood skeg into an airfoil, reinforcing areas of the skeg with fiberglass, fabricating the control slot trough for the deployment knob, and doing an epoxy end pour in the hull to strengthen the ends. Throughout, the host Nick discusses the pros and cons of having a skeg.

In this video, Nick and Bill are working on the Petrel Play SG, a stitch and glue sea kayak from a kit made by Chesapeake Light Craft. They focus on glassing some of the kayak parts and explain the process in detail. They demonstrate the process of layering the fiberglass on different components and provide insights on effectively using epoxy and thickening agents. They also introduce the concept of peel ply and its application in the fiberglassing process. Nick emphasizes the value of taking on smaller tasks such as fiberglassing early in the building process to gain familiarity with the materials and techniques.

In this video Nick Schade and Bill work on fiberglassing the Petrel Play SG sea kayak, addressing gaps at the bow and stern, laying fiberglass cloth, wetting it with epoxy using brushes and rollers, and applying a fill coat to smooth out the texture. The video offers detailed demonstrations and explanations of the stitch-and-glue boat building process.

Nick and Bill sand cured epoxy fillets to prepare for fiberglassing the interior of a Chesapeake Light Craft kayak kit. They mix small batches of epoxy, applying it with rollers and brushes. Nick coaches Bill on technique for evenly wetting out the 4oz fiberglass without excess. They use a slotted cup to remove the excess epoxy, ending up with a nicely reinforced interior.

This video shows the process of fiberglassing the inside of a stitch and glue kayak hull after it has been stitched and glued together. Fiberglassing the inside is tricky since gravity works against properly conforming the cloth to all the corners. The key technique is ensuring adequate cloth is worked into every seam so there are no bridges where the cloth gaps across corners. Rather than perfecting each section before moving on, the goal is to quickly get reasonable coverage across all surfaces, then refine problem areas. Excess resin should be removed with a "grunge cup" - a cup with a slit for the squeegee - since excess resin adds weight and reduces strength.

In this episode, I work on a 17-foot high-performance sea kayak, the Petrel, as I prepare to fiberglass it. I detail the meticulous preparation needed for applying the epoxy and discuss the process of fill coating the hull and deck. I also share insights on using different epoxy resins for wetting out the cloth and applying the fill coat.