Petrel Kayak Build - Cove and Bead Strips - E1

Milling strips for building a strip-built Petrel sea kayak. I'm making 3/16" thick cove and bead strips from western red cedar.


hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks workshop
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm
starting on a new project
I got him commissioned to build a petrol
strip build petrol and I'm about to get
started I don't plan to document this
quite as extensively as I did the micro
bootlegger sport I think I pretty well
covered most of the steps in that
project but I'm going to be doing a few
different things with this project than
I did with the last project and the
previous petrol play and I I'll try and
cover those things as I get to them and
just show you the process and more of an
overview manner throughout the build the
first thing I need to do is select my
wood and what I'm gonna do is I've got
some really nice western red cedar here
but it happens to be stuff that doesn't
work for a book match and the customer
doesn't want book matched he's looking
for what I call random colored strips so
I have a couple boards here and actually
this board here is what I had cut for
the micro bootlegger sport but if you
remember back then I screwed up one of
the strips
I was trying for book matching and I
turned the blank 90 degrees one time and
ended up with a strip that wasn't quite
right and as a consequence I could not
use that for book match but it's plenty
of really good lumber here the strips
are all cut they're just about ready to
go so I originally cut this into eight
blanks and each of those blanks produce
six strips so I have about six times
eight which is 48 so I've got 48 times
17 equals about 800 lineal feet of
strips 816 lineal feet this the petrel
requires about 900 lineal feet of strips
I'd like to have a little bit more I'll
shoot for about a thousand so over here
I have another bundle of strips there's
about twenty four strips here and they
are 16 feet long so 24 times 16 equals
384 so that gets me to about 1200 lineal
feet of strips so should be plenty and
it's really nice stuff I don't want a
book match and I don't want to end up
having it look like I started the book
match and then just screwed it up
so to avoid that I'm gonna mix both
bundles of these strips together and
then flip some of them in firend
that way the strips that are from the
same board get a little bit more
randomized so by shuffling them together
and flipping them in Firenze some of
them in friend I'll have a more random
pile and so I won't have accidental book
matches or I shouldn't have quite as
many accidental you know I might have a
couple of Jason strips that it's
obviously came together but that'll look
fine it's only if I have a whole series
like four or five strips that are
matching together then all of a sudden
I've got one that's a little off it'll
make it look like I made a mistake where
by having them more randomized I won't
have that issue so the other thing I'm
going to experiment with is in the last
build I use square edged strips for the
past two builds this time I'm going to
use Kovan bead and I'm using 3/16 strips
here these are all cut to 3/16 and what
I normally do with 3/16 is I use my
quarter inch diameter Cove and bead bits
in this case i scrounged around and
found online some bits that will work
for 3/16 Cove and bead usually I think
the quarter inch works pretty well for
Cove and bead strips on the 3/16 strips
because it lets them move together
pretty well and where sometimes a deep
Cohen bead can lock things in and have
them have a hard time conforming but I
want to do the science I have not used
the 3/16 inch Cove and bead set on 3/16
strips before so I'm sure it will work
I'm just trying to find out if it's a
benefit as opposed to using my standard
quarter inch Cove and beat
so that's my plan my first thing I want
to do is just check the thickness of
these strips see how consistent they are
make sure they're really good 3/16 and
if I need to I can come back and mill
them all to a more uniform thickness by
running them through the plane so I'm
finding some here are like a 64th under
3/16 and I'm doing the co wood bead I
want them really nice and uniform so
what I'm gonna do is set up my thickness
planer just run all these strips through
there and then we will work on setting
up the Kovan beat so I've just taken
every other strip out of the bundle here
and I'm gonna just take them out flip
them in firend
and then bring them back in just put
them back in the pile just again to make
sure that the grain doesn't line up too
much and every other strip you know I'm
not being religious about that I just
tried to get every other strip and see
what we get so I'll do this bundle then
I'll do the next bundle and I'll mix
them all together and I also want to
have them flipped as to what's the top
side and what's the bottom side again
that way grains won't line up quite as
so now I'll just set up the plane and
run these all through and I'll try and
playing them down to just like a 64
thunder 3/16
with the strips all the thickness I'm
ready to put the : bead on here's your
standard : bead set quarter inch
diameter on those these fit together
beautifully like that and here we have a
3/16 inch strip about 3/16 right there
these are quarter so if I set this down
in here obviously the the thickness of
this is a little bit wider than the
thickness of the strip and that tends to
work out pretty well
the Colvin bead lets the strip's rotate
relative to each other so if there's a
little curvature around the boat works
out fine there can be a little bit of a
step from one to the next as that strip
sort of rotates around that larger
diameter not a problem I think it works
out well that's my standard way of doing
it when I use : bead strips with the
3/16 inch thick strips but I figured
let's do a little experiment and see
what it looks like when I use a actual
3/16 radius so I found a little bullnose
bit here which is 3/16 so the radius is
three thirty-seconds times two 3/16 and
here I have a multi fluting bit so this
should be pretty much exact match with a
strip and if I purchase the right thing
so here we have a bunch of three
sixteenths of stacked one on top of each
other this is I don't need this bearing
on here this just happens to be the bit
I found where it makes a three
sixteenths Cove so we're gonna go with
this just choose one of these and use
this so the downside of the smaller
diameter of both of these relative to
these is the cut through the strip will
end up pulling out a little bit at a
steeper angle so it might tend to ship
out a little bit more just the diameter
this makes it so it's going to be coming
out at a different angle but I think
it'll be fine so I'm going to set up I
will cut the bead first because the cove
is a little bit more delicate and I want
to handle those strips as little as
possible so this will be a quick cut
through there on my router and we'll see
how it goes
so I wanted setup so it's centered so
this black spot is in the center up and
down and you see I'm not getting the
cutting in that I was getting right here
so I'm not cutting into the bottom of it
at all and I get at the center this was
too deep because I'm starting to take
away the width so I like leaving a
little bit of black right in the middle
and means I you know I can see where
that it's centered it also means that
I'm not wasting any width of the wood
and it's a really flat section there
anyways so it's not like it's gonna be a
big gap inside basically it'll be just
enough room to have a little bit of glue
in there and should be perfect just like
that so now I'm going to set up the
power stock feeder and run some more
tests strips just make sure that the
presence of the power stock feeder does
not screw up the centering of this
now looks about perfect leaving a little
bit of black right in the middle and
nice and even on both sides
so that's all the beads cut one thing
that should be pretty clear is since I
don't have to keep the strip's in order
I can just feed them through a lot
quicker and just make a pile over there
make a pile over here feed them through
and I'm just pulling whatever's on the
top and I'm looking for a random pattern
of the strips and this will sort of
guarantee that it's randomly because I'm
just pulling random strips as I go here
so doing this without book matching
obviously saves time and I think you'll
find the finished product still looks
great let's the beads all cut I now need
to cut the coves so I want to end up
with the cove and the bead references
the same face of the strip that way
there's no irregularities if the strip
has a little bit of irregularity and
thickness I don't want the Colvin be
doing this relative to each other I want
them to maintain the same height so
right now the strip went through like
this bead on this side and I want to cut
the cove on this side now if I just flip
the strip over now I'm referencing off
the other face of the strip so the
easiest way to deal with that is to just
take and turn this whole router table
around so the fence is now on this side
the potential issue with that is that's
making the spinning of the router go
opposite to the direction of the feed
not a big deal but it could affect the
quality of the cut the other way to do
it is just to take this whole stack of
strips flip them in friend and then run
it through the same set up so it's still
so it's still cutting on this side but
now everything's flipped in Firenze so
we'll be cutting
on this side of the strip so see how it
I I think what I'm gonna do is instead
of flipping this around I'm gonna flip
all the strips around I have this set up
here with the power feed in such a way
that it's feeding this way and it'll be
a little bit easier so I'm just gonna
take the bundle of strip's pick them up
take them outside turn around and walk
back in and put the strip's back down
and that should end up flipping them in
for end I'm just going to quickly bundle
them together with a little stretch wrap
so it's a little bit easier to handle
so we've got the cove nicely centered
now you see I'm leaving a little black
top and bottom I want to leave a little
tiny square edge top and bottom I don't
want to bring this down to a super fine
feather edge otherwise it'll be very
delicate and it would be harder for a
strip fitting in there to actually
rotate if the lips come all the way up
pushing it this way or that way would
have a tendency to want to break off
those little feather edges so I want to
push it a little bit deeper in get those
black lines a little bit narrower but I
don't want to take it out so it's a
super feather edge so I get this little
magnetic feather board which doesn't do
a whole lot it just sort of helps guide
the strip into place there so now I'll
just try running some long strips make
sure everything's still working before
running the whole bag
that's it for the first episode of
building the strip fill petrol in the
next episode I'll start putting together
the forms get the form set up work on
the inner stems so stay tuned I'll be
trying to release a new episode every
week or so so again I think I have about
15 episodes or so this build in the can
I just need to edit them down so as I
edit them I will put them out there so I
support making these videos by selling
plans for this design and other designs
that you can build your own I have
designs for kayaks and canoes and rowing
boats and I just redid my website and
all those plans are available on that
website at Guillemette kayaks calm
there's a - between the Gil amount and
the kayaks otherwise if you wanted more
directly support the production of these
videos I have a patreon site feel free
to go over there to directly support the
production of these videos otherwise
just liking and sharing is support
enough I really appreciate your support
it's fun making these videos but it's a
lot of work I do hope you find them
useful and I look forward to posting
more videos in the future stay tuned
we'll see what comes up thanks for
watching and happy paddling.