Here I trim off the strips at the feature line, add an accent strip along the trimmed edges and then complete the stripping of the rest of the deck
This is the Strip Built Petrel design.
Support my Patreon at: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade
Tools:
- Mini Shoulder Plane: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/p…
- Verita Side Rabbet Plane: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=60012&cat=1,41182
- Wood River Side Rabbet Plane (not as good as Veritas, but more affordable) http://amzn.to/2CvRa4f
- Stanley #79 (Ebay): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-79-Side-Rabbet-Plane
- kunz #79 (crappy castings but with love it would work great) https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx
- Low Angle Block Plane: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes…
- Apron Plane: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/4679…
- RoboBevel: https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel…
- T-50 Stapler: https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0
- Bostitch Heavy Duty Staple Remover: https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L 9/16"
- T-50 Staples: https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw
- Craftsman Cutting Sheers: https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW
- Heavy Duty Hot Melt Glue Gun: https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ
- 1" Spring Clamps: https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy
- Green high-stick Tape: https://amzn.to/317aLFV
- Titebond Glue: https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP
- 4-oz Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B
Hey welcome to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade I design and
build small boats primarily kayaks but
also canoes row boats anything that you
can put on top of a car I've been
designing boats since the 1980s of and
Gilmar kayaks was have been around since
1993 I've written a couple books about
building boats primarily with the strip
building method and I've written
articles for wooden boat magazines sea
kayak or Backlund and existed and with
my company Gill my kayaks I sell plans
and instructions for people to build
their own boats and all my designs are
offered as kits to Chesapeake like craft
in this episode I'll finish up stripping
up the deck and get to the point where
I'm about ready to put in the cockpit
recess I'll start off with putting in an
accent along the feature lines on the
deck and then I'll fill in the remaining
strips so without further ado let's get
right to it
I didn't make this strip long enough so
I've got a little gap right here I'm
just gonna glue another piece in there
fill that in and it's such a small piece
if I don't have a perfect fit nobody
will notice so most of it will get
trimmed off
[Music]
I didn't here's where I put that little
extra bit in this is a glue the super
glue right there so it's like a 32nd or
64th wide at that point goes out to
about there
really all that did was fill a cove in
on this strip so when I glued this down
there wasn't a gap there
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
so I cut these calming recess pieces on
my CNC machine it's just a quick way to
do it but I didn't get it on video so
what I'm just gonna do is pre assemble
this recess just to bend these around
here like that put a little tape on it
then super glue it together and then
work on installing it on the deck of the
boat
I cut this recess sill piece with the
grain going across like this that
happened to be the way it fit in my
plywood the best structurally when it's
all done it's going to be fine but right
now it's a little delicate because this
short grain right across here so I'm
just taking a little bit of a masking
tape and sticking it down on this is a
whole thing to bind the that grain
together a little bit more give it a
little bit of reinforcement you know
I'll be delicate with it but just added
insurance
I remembered as I was gluing this up and
I'm gonna stain everything and it might
be a problem later because this will act
as resist in here this super glue but I
have some solutions I think we'll see
how it works out right now before I
install this bit I want to work on
beveling this edge right now that edge
is angled out through the square edge of
the cut and want to bevel it down and a
little bit inward so when I go to press
it into the deck it has a squeezing
tight fit there so I want to go all the
way around
this edge here blend this in a little
bit here and there and get this a little
bit more vertical for the installed unit
[Music]
[Music]
this recess is going to drop in here
something like so but in order to make
that fit I first got a couple an
approximation of the hole that's going
to drop into so I have a paper pattern
here which will lay up something like
this
and that'll guide me on where to make
the cut
so I'll tape this in place but I want to
get the staples out of the way first so
they're not interfering with the fare so
I'm just going to remove the staples
from this area this heavy-duty Bostitch
a staple remover is pretty nice it's a
model g27 w staple remover from stanley
Bostitch one thing about it basically
you have this flat surface to press
against the wood so it doesn't dimple
the wood and you just stick the little
tooth there under it push down on the
lever and it lifts that staple right out
of there
this little tooth here you see is on a
screw it can come out and you can
sharpen this little tooth to make it
easier to get under some of the staples
I have not yet done that with this so I
think I'm going to do that make it a
little bit easier to get into the some
of the staples that were a little too
close to the wood
I didn't make a knife sharp but just
tried to make it a little bit easier to
slide under the staple so it still has a
bit of a square edge there but it's down
a little bit lower good way to start so
just get the tooth under the scape a
little bit start wiggling it up take it
out off the staple avoid trying to dig
in like this that'll leave a divot in
the wood little horseshoe shape that'll
leave a mark that will be hard to sand
out just try and slide it horizontally
in and once you get it hooked in a
little bit a little wiggle pull it out
so be a little careful that you don't
end up with a staple hanging off the
bottom here like this sometimes when you
go to dump it out it stays on there and
you end up pressing that staple down
into the wood as you go to pull the next
staple out so your little careful with
that
seems to be in the ballpark I'm going to
cut it out with a saber saw with the
really fine tooth blade in there I don't
want to cut through the form so I'll
just go in between the forms and use a
handsaw
to get at the forms and again I don't
want to cut too strong back so I'll come
up to here and stop going to here and
stop this is gonna sit in there about
like this you'll see it's starting to
hit this spacer in the strong back and
when it's all the way in it's going to
hit that it will not hit the strong back
itself though it's just the spacer so
I'd like to remove the spacer and in
order to do that I need to move this
form and in order to do that and go into
some of the other forms I'll move the
staples from these three forms that way
so that's about enough for this episode
in the next episode we'll put in the
cockpit recess and see how far we get
with that if you're interested in
building your own boat like this head
over to my website Gilliam at kayaks
calm I've got plans and instructions
there for this design and a bunch of
other designs and there's probably a
boat there suitable for your needs if
you'd like to provide some direct
support for these videos I've got a
patreon site you can chip in a buck or
two a month just to help the production
of these videos if you don't want to do
any of that but you like these videos
and you want to see more of them hit
subscribe like my facebook page share
with your friends turn on notifications
all that good stuff so until the next
episode thanks for watching and happy
paddling.
workshop I'm Nick Schade I design and
build small boats primarily kayaks but
also canoes row boats anything that you
can put on top of a car I've been
designing boats since the 1980s of and
Gilmar kayaks was have been around since
1993 I've written a couple books about
building boats primarily with the strip
building method and I've written
articles for wooden boat magazines sea
kayak or Backlund and existed and with
my company Gill my kayaks I sell plans
and instructions for people to build
their own boats and all my designs are
offered as kits to Chesapeake like craft
in this episode I'll finish up stripping
up the deck and get to the point where
I'm about ready to put in the cockpit
recess I'll start off with putting in an
accent along the feature lines on the
deck and then I'll fill in the remaining
strips so without further ado let's get
right to it
I didn't make this strip long enough so
I've got a little gap right here I'm
just gonna glue another piece in there
fill that in and it's such a small piece
if I don't have a perfect fit nobody
will notice so most of it will get
trimmed off
[Music]
I didn't here's where I put that little
extra bit in this is a glue the super
glue right there so it's like a 32nd or
64th wide at that point goes out to
about there
really all that did was fill a cove in
on this strip so when I glued this down
there wasn't a gap there
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
so I cut these calming recess pieces on
my CNC machine it's just a quick way to
do it but I didn't get it on video so
what I'm just gonna do is pre assemble
this recess just to bend these around
here like that put a little tape on it
then super glue it together and then
work on installing it on the deck of the
boat
I cut this recess sill piece with the
grain going across like this that
happened to be the way it fit in my
plywood the best structurally when it's
all done it's going to be fine but right
now it's a little delicate because this
short grain right across here so I'm
just taking a little bit of a masking
tape and sticking it down on this is a
whole thing to bind the that grain
together a little bit more give it a
little bit of reinforcement you know
I'll be delicate with it but just added
insurance
I remembered as I was gluing this up and
I'm gonna stain everything and it might
be a problem later because this will act
as resist in here this super glue but I
have some solutions I think we'll see
how it works out right now before I
install this bit I want to work on
beveling this edge right now that edge
is angled out through the square edge of
the cut and want to bevel it down and a
little bit inward so when I go to press
it into the deck it has a squeezing
tight fit there so I want to go all the
way around
this edge here blend this in a little
bit here and there and get this a little
bit more vertical for the installed unit
[Music]
[Music]
this recess is going to drop in here
something like so but in order to make
that fit I first got a couple an
approximation of the hole that's going
to drop into so I have a paper pattern
here which will lay up something like
this
and that'll guide me on where to make
the cut
so I'll tape this in place but I want to
get the staples out of the way first so
they're not interfering with the fare so
I'm just going to remove the staples
from this area this heavy-duty Bostitch
a staple remover is pretty nice it's a
model g27 w staple remover from stanley
Bostitch one thing about it basically
you have this flat surface to press
against the wood so it doesn't dimple
the wood and you just stick the little
tooth there under it push down on the
lever and it lifts that staple right out
of there
this little tooth here you see is on a
screw it can come out and you can
sharpen this little tooth to make it
easier to get under some of the staples
I have not yet done that with this so I
think I'm going to do that make it a
little bit easier to get into the some
of the staples that were a little too
close to the wood
I didn't make a knife sharp but just
tried to make it a little bit easier to
slide under the staple so it still has a
bit of a square edge there but it's down
a little bit lower good way to start so
just get the tooth under the scape a
little bit start wiggling it up take it
out off the staple avoid trying to dig
in like this that'll leave a divot in
the wood little horseshoe shape that'll
leave a mark that will be hard to sand
out just try and slide it horizontally
in and once you get it hooked in a
little bit a little wiggle pull it out
so be a little careful that you don't
end up with a staple hanging off the
bottom here like this sometimes when you
go to dump it out it stays on there and
you end up pressing that staple down
into the wood as you go to pull the next
staple out so your little careful with
that
seems to be in the ballpark I'm going to
cut it out with a saber saw with the
really fine tooth blade in there I don't
want to cut through the form so I'll
just go in between the forms and use a
handsaw
to get at the forms and again I don't
want to cut too strong back so I'll come
up to here and stop going to here and
stop this is gonna sit in there about
like this you'll see it's starting to
hit this spacer in the strong back and
when it's all the way in it's going to
hit that it will not hit the strong back
itself though it's just the spacer so
I'd like to remove the spacer and in
order to do that I need to move this
form and in order to do that and go into
some of the other forms I'll move the
staples from these three forms that way
so that's about enough for this episode
in the next episode we'll put in the
cockpit recess and see how far we get
with that if you're interested in
building your own boat like this head
over to my website Gilliam at kayaks
calm I've got plans and instructions
there for this design and a bunch of
other designs and there's probably a
boat there suitable for your needs if
you'd like to provide some direct
support for these videos I've got a
patreon site you can chip in a buck or
two a month just to help the production
of these videos if you don't want to do
any of that but you like these videos
and you want to see more of them hit
subscribe like my facebook page share
with your friends turn on notifications
all that good stuff so until the next
episode thanks for watching and happy
paddling.
