Stripping the Hull - Petrel Kayak Build - E3

Using cove and bead strips to build the hull of the Petrel Strip-Built Sea Kayak.

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Rabbet Planes:

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hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and we're working
on the strip built Petrel it's a
high-performance sea kayaks it's a lot
of fun to paddle I'm sorry for the delay
from the last video where we set up the
forms in this episode we're gonna start
stripping the bottom of the kayak
unfortunately during some of the filming
of this I had the levels in the audio
all messed up so some of the audio is
pretty bad in one place like it was
completely unusable so I had to come in
and do some voiceover afterwards I
actually captured this video over a year
ago so there's nothing I can do about it
now other than just try and make do with
what I've got but hopefully it comes out
okay and you get the picture of what's
going on
the strip's gonna follow this year here
and then the petrol and a lot of
traditionally safe kayaks is a lot of
sweet to this year and to make the strip
easier to bend you know I think this
since I've already cut this trip down
and with a little bit it should be
easily enough bent to make that
curvature but if you find that it has
trouble bending the easiest thing to do
is just make this trip a little bit
narrower yet so what I like to do and
visually I think this looks good is to
taper this trip down so I'm just going
to take both of these sheer strips clamp
them together on my little bench and
then use a plane to taper them down
on the stern end one thing to consider
is if you don't have a table saw in your
work you know like you're working from a
kit and you want to take the co over
bead off you can do it with a hand plane
it really doesn't take all that much
time and does a good job so this strip
is going to go up along this year like
this but I want to make it so when I go
to put the deck on I'm going to have a
good tight joint here to accomplish that
I want to make a miter between the two
strips so if I have a strip coming in
like this and the strip coming in like
this there's going to be a gap in there
but I've made a little mark here and
it's got a dot and a line coming out of
it which shows a bisection of the angle
between the hull and the deck so right
here the hull on the deck and if you
imagine this was 90 degree angle you'd
have the 45-degree cut in there to make
a good mitre the angles vary from form
to form so we don't can't just go with a
45 it's going to be a rolling bevel so
what I do is I just take some of these
scrap strips put them up against that
little tick mark there
when I get towards the middle of the
boat hull shape is more rounded and the
deck hull part line is more continuous
and in there you really don't need to do
any beveling at all so I'm just gonna
put some of these little brackets there
as a hanger so when they go to lay the
strip on it just doesn't fall off so I'm
gonna set the bottom of that even with
that little tick mark those little
brackets down now I have a gauge to show
me what the angle should be on the
bottom edge of this strip so to make
this a little bit easier as I work I'm
gonna just mark each one of these strips
with the number of the form so this is
form 19 this is a nineteenth form from
the bow of the boat so I'm just writing
nineteen eighteen to figure out the
bevel I'm gonna put on here I'm gonna
hold the strip down against the stick
and look at the gap in between this
strip and this strip so I'm looking at
that gap right down in there right down
in there and you'll snow this if you
look from form to form that it changes a
little bit so it's again it's rolling
so I'm going to look at that gap and
then I'm going to take the plane and
hold it to match the gap I just saw
right there so I want to match that gap
and if I hold this plane at that angle I
just saw and keep on planing holding
that angle steady the whole time until
that gap is gone then I know I've got
the angle about right don't worry about
making it perfect we're gonna have a
chance to clean this up much later in
the project but we want to just get this
close to start with we do want to
continue the bevel all the way out to
the tip of the strip
oh my scarf just broke so this is a
scarf I glued together super glue and
you can see that the wood failed a
little bit right there I didn't have a
good bond on the whole surface it's just
a bonded right in there I didn't do a
great job at making that scarf but we'll
just try and clean it up
glue it right back together again
so I've got the Shira strips done for
both sides they're ready to go
beveled both ends tapered both ends all
looks good I'm just going to break for
lunch and after lunch we'll start
putting strips on
so lunch is over now it's time to get
these shears tripping so I'm just
essentially going to make sure that
they're running fair and staple them in
place I'm using state
so the second strip is not gonna follow
the shear line the whole length of the
boat I've got the shear line that curves
down I'm gonna let this run a little bit
more natural curve the ends sweep up
quite a bit and I want to take some of
that stress out you know I tapered this
strip and it will end up with a easier
pattern to strip I have two diagonal
lines here marked on the forms those are
parallel to these diagonal lines marked
farther up here which intersect the
chine back here at the stern of the boat
so if I run this strip parallel to these
diagonal lines here it'll mean that by
the time I get up to these this diagonal
line those strips will run parallel to
that shine back there and hopefully if
the spacing works out just right I won't
need to do much as far as trimming that
strip back to make it around the chime
that'll make more sense a little bit
later but right now my goal is take some
of the stress out of the strip and
hopefully make it so things line up
later on in the project for an easier
fit together so all I'm gonna do is glue
it here in the middle and then let it
run free at the ends I'm going to use
the diagonal lines that's drawn on the
forms here as a guide to get a nice fair
curve down at the ends so I've aligned
the strip down at that end with the end
form on that point and so this overhang
will end up getting cut off if this
piece of tape is in the way when I go to
glue it down I'll peel it off so I'll
end up gluing from about 4/5 here to
about form 16
so I've gotten up to the chine here and
if I were to put a strip down like this
it doesn't you know up flat against the
forms it doesn't end up in the coal
there the coal is sticking up a little
bit high so I need to do something to
make a transition from this surface to
this surface and what I typically do is
I put a strip in there and playing a
bevel into it again a miter kind of like
we're doing at the shear line and then
continue on since I've got the covin
bead here I think what I'm going to do
is just take a strip like this rip it in
half so I can add the bottom half to the
side of the boat and then use the top
half to make the transition on to the
bottom of the boat and I think I'm going
to throw an accent in between those so
I'll look for a dark piece that's gonna
make a good contrast there with the
accent and then rip that in half do it
for both sides this side and the other
side and then we'll keep on going so I
have a piece cut here this is just the
bead half and I will go there and it
looks like I'm going too far here but I
got to cut a bevel onto this and if I
cut the bevel onto this I don't have
enough material here so most of this
will actually get cut away but it'll
just stick up straight like that and
then I'll bevel that face and then I
have the other half here that has the
Cove on it and we'll use that to
continue on from there
since this is a narrow strip there's not
a lot of room to put staples in so I'm
going to tape it down so I've got to let
that glue dry before I plane the edge
and put that bevel on so here at the
chine I need to create a seam between
the side of the boat and the bottom of
the boat and you see there's a pretty
open gap here that the Colvin bead was
that not able to cope with so I put a
narrow square edge strip here and I'll
use the other half of that later to
continue it but you see I have this gap
between the strips that I need to get
rid of and essentially I want to create
a miter between this surface and that
surface which will be bisecting that
angle something like this so there's a
couple ways I can go about doing it I
can't use a standard plane because the
blade doesn't make it all the way to the
edge so if I try and plane here the
blade just doesn't cut into that edge
there so I typically would use some sort
of a rabbet plane
so here the blade comes all the way to
the edge so if I run this along here
where the forms are I can trim right
down close to the forms and get a good
bevel there so this is a full sized
rabbet plane that would work just fine
we have my Robo bevel
this has a little rabbit plane in it and
this absolutely would work just fine to
get in there the trick is figuring out
the angle I want to bisect this angle
here and I'm just gonna eyeball it but
the plane of this tool runs this way and
I'm cutting perpendicular to that and so
it's a little bit hard for me to judge
my angle on what I'm cutting there so
instead I like to use the side rabbet
plane so here's a Veritas side rabbet
plane and this see the plane of the
blade is on the same plane as the tools
so if I hold this with my best guess of
an angle it's gonna cut the angle I'm
holding it out so I can just visualize
down the plane of this tool where that
angle is and so this this Veritas side
rabbet plane works really well and this
is the stanley 79 this is an antique
tool I picked up at a used tool dealer
and this is the same basic principle as
a Veritas side rabbet plane
I think the Veritas is based on the
stanley 79 but a different configuration
this has a nice little fence here so I
can place this on the strip and run it
down along that fence and that keeps me
lined up so I don't end up bumping into
those forms all the time
the problem is in order to switch
directions I need to switch the fence
over not a big deal is quick and easy
but with the stanley 79 I put a just a
chunk of wood on the back here as a
fence a lot of them come with their own
fence this one didn't happen to come
with a fence so I made one and I can go
either direction with this cutting
either direction and I still have the
ability to sort of eyeball down the
plane of the tool and say that's the
angle I'm going for I'm trying to bisect
go there and so I can just visualize
down that tool and start cutting this
way so that's what I'm going to be using
today it's to judge that angle if you
follow this chain from way back here
behind the cockpit up towards the bow
the transitions from a hard shine back
here in the early night 90 degree angle
to very soft shine up here so the amount
of beveling I need to do up here is
almost zero at that point just to clean
up that edge I might bring in my Robo
bevel make sure that bevel is pretty
close but working from here as I move
forward I'm gonna be doing much much
shallower bevel along the way so here
I'm doing almost nothing we're here it's
a nearly 45-degree angle
it doesn't look like I'm moving the tool
all that much but it's just the nature
of the way the shape transitions from
here to there that very little bevel
here a lot of bevel back here
so my plan is to put an accent strip
right along that shine line and I'm
going to sandwich that in between the
existing strip and the other half of
that strip with the Cove on it so we'll
get a nice little accent like that so I
need to cut some Alaskan yellow cedar I
like Alaskan yellow cedar because it
tends to have a nice bright contrast
with the other wood
so before I install this strip to start
on the bottom I need to bevel it to
match the bevel I have on this last
strip on the side so I've numbered the
forms just to give me a quick reference
and again I'm gonna look at the gap I
see here and then match the gap with the
plane and then plane away until that gap
is gone make a rough guess and what it's
going to be check it hold it
check it again so we want to have that
bevel roll from form to form here so it
pays to look a little bit ahead and it
doesn't need to be perfect here
might notice as I'm doing this planing
the strips very flexible I push really
hard on it especially if I've got a dull
blade it's gonna have a hard time
cutting so in order to make it easier I
tend to bend it a little bit so I get
pressure against the blade to make sure
the play is coming in contact with the
wood where if you push harder it tends
to bend away from the blade and the
blade doesn't come in contact so that's
a nice tight right there and tight there
and then when I go to put the accent in
between look sharp
now that I'm past a chine I can just
start working on the bottom it'll be a
couple more strips on both sides and
I'll get to the point where they're
interfering with each other so I will
just do one side then trim down the
middle and strip up the other side
okay I ran out of time before I got all
the way across the side of the bottom we
get about thirty minutes to get up to
about three strips left in another ten
minutes I was done but now I'm gonna let
that side dry before working on the
other side so I'm going to do a little
bit of work here on the bough cheetah
strips on this side and we'll fill in
those while this glue is drying
so that's it for this video I plan to
get through the whole stripping at the
bottom of a boat in this episode those
running a little bit long so instead I
will finish off the other side of the
bottom in the next episode and what I
think really gonna be interesting about
the next episode is how I treat the
centerline I have a new way of doing the
centerline that I stole from another
boat builder and it's really it's it's
really pretty amazing how
straightforward it is it's a little
tricky but it's straightforward and it
does a great job and it's really quick
so if you're interested in seeing that
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here where we're building today and a
bunch of other small kayaks and other
small boats basically I specialize in
car top level small boat designs so
you'll find those plans there my Robo
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your interest in this strip building
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really go through the details of the
strip building process and a really good
supplement to these videos so head over
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