Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7

Installing the cockpit recess and getting going on sanding and fairing.

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

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hey welcome to heal my kayaks workshop
I'm Nick Schade and we were working on
the petrel sea kayak and last episode we
finished up the stripping and in this
episode we will install the cockpit
recess and start sanding before I get
into that like to talk a little bit
about the Cove and bead strips as you
remember I'm using 3/16 thick strips and
I'm using the three sixteenths diameter
covin bead bit
the typical cove and bead width 3/16 strips
is still using the quarter inch that
you'd use a quarter inch thick strips
but I found a set of router bits that
will make 3/16 Cove and bead and I
decided to experiment with that and see
how it worked worked well they'll work
better than the quarter-inch cove and bead
set I got good tight joints things
seemed to nestle in there they seemed to
stay in place quite well I would say
however I can get better tighter joint
still by hand beveling for example using
my Robo-bevel on square edged strips I
think I can still get tighter joints by
hand beveling so with that said let's
get straight to this episode with the
spacers out these forms are free to move
so I can push them out of the way as I
need to so at this point I'm going to
drop the recess back in place and I've
made some marks where the centre line is
on each end here I'm going to line that
up with the centre line on the boat
now I'm gonna trace this on to the deck
the pattern I used to cut out this hole
just as a rough size it ends up cutting
a little bit small
which is ideal be bad if it was oversize
it's hard to add wood back on but here
we can get it fitted in closer to where
it needs to be gives you a good idea
where it needs to be and then now we can
make a new mark here
they use a saber saw again to get in
closer to that line I use a bunch of
little planes to clean up the edge these
need to get fared out and beveled so
they fit up against the the recess piece
so we'll just take and playing this down
just look for the high spots and knock
them down
I have a little gap here between where
strip coming in from the stern and strip
coming in to the bow didn't quite meet
and ended up being a little bit on the
deck I think by the time I get this all
playing down all that's going to remain
of this little gap filler is slightest a
little bit so that's going to be
invisible but I just want to have
something in there for now while I'm
filling that in getting it plain smooth
up at the front end of this reef set
piece this piece is a little bit wider
than the feature line here so I'm gonna
eventually want to trim this down blend
that in but for now I'm just gonna work
and hitting these fits tighter but
you'll see me shave that back a little
bit so this point ends up great even
with that your feature line so again
this is going to have to be trimmed off
on both sides make it symmetrical
the cockpit recess all installed I'm
ready to pull the staples and start
sanding I might do a little scraping
we'll see what needs to be done I'll
just get to it I'm using staples people
often think it's going to take a real
long time to remove them all you know
this year I started about ten of two and
I finished up but about two o'clock
so I've done one quick pass over the
whole deck with 60 grid in the random
orbital sander I haven't tried to fix
anything I've just tried to go over the
whole thing start to level it out and
it's a fairly consistent manner so I'm
trying to just hit everything about the
same amount at this point there's some
places that the Sanders missed for
various reasons usually there's some
little low strips if i zoom in here you
see some shiny spots around up in here
down here some in here
those are spots where you're seeing the
surface of the strip that's been cut
with a saw and there's sort of dull
sections are all where it's been hit
with the sander so I'd like to get rid
of all those shiny spots and the trick
there isn't to just go and hit those
shiny spots with the sander it's the
level the areas around it down to the
level of that low spot so there's a
couple ways you can do it you can do it
with the sander some of them up in here
I've got these are where the really
sharp points the strips come in between
two other strips and those ten does not
want to bend up as the stern sweeps up
here but I think I'm gonna do there is
just hit those areas with a spokeshave
and essentially I'm lowering the wood
around those low spots
and I'll hit it with a sander again see
if it looks any better
obviously I've made some new shiny spots
trying saying those level see how it was
a bunch of shiny spots in here - between
strips looks like I just didn't hit that
quite as much with the sander
there's a little bit of shine up in here
left but otherwise that's looking pretty
so that's sixty grit on the deck now
I'll flip the boat over and start
working on the bottom right now the only
thing holding the deck onto this strong
back is a little bit of residual glue
you're just going to tape it down just
so as I manhandling I'm just gonna flip
it over onto these cradles on the
sawhorse doesn't work on it there so it
took about ten minutes remove the
staples from the deck and then here's
another 15 minutes
so it took twenty five minutes
I'll ask the first pass with the 60 grit
so I could cut down pretty well as a
couple shiny spots deal with this
looking good I'm going to take the hull
off the forms and then the deck off the
forms and create two sets of forms one
for the deck one for the hole just to
make it easier to work on so I can work
on the deck and work on the hull kind of
at the same time without having to flip
back and forth between them obviously
you could do what I did before or just
as I finished one part flip it over do
the other part but it is a little heavy
with all the forms in there and the
strong back and so forth so I'm just
going to take it all apart and what I'm
going to do is I don't have two full
sets of forms so I'm going to just take
every other form and put every other
form on the other strong back and that
way I have two sets of forms with
instead of a ten inch spacing like I
have on these forms I'll have a twenty
inch space at this point it's all
stripped up it's not a big deal so
that's the plan
I've got these little half-inch spaces I
can put in in lieu of the form and so
the spacing stones
I'm gonna make this strong back to the
deck and I'm going to keep the bow forms
on the deck because the deck is just
I'm just gonna put a little dab of our
hot melt glue on the forms just near the
shear line to just help secure the
Deccan Hall to those forms so they don't
shift around as I'm sanding
I'm now going to send everything 60 grid
on a longboard this is to fare out the
surface the first pass with the random
orbital 60 grit was to level things out
get rid of the glue start to get rid of
the facets between the strips this will
tend to make sure that there's no divots
left by that sanding and to help just
get a smooth surface
so now the boats fair I've leveled out
all the inconsistencies between the
strips I've gotten rid of any
inconsistencies in the link with the
longboard now really all I need to do is
get rid of the scratches from the 60
grit so first step I'm going to step up
to 80 grit and now I'm going to put a
contour pad on this will make the sander
conform more to the surface of the boat
and be a little bit less aggressive when
I first ran it with this rotecks
I was using the aggressive mode I'm
going to turn it down to the less
aggressive mode a little finer sanding
again we're trying to get rid of the
sanding scratches now and from here I
will do some more hand sanding and then
go to 120 and work my way up to 120 and
finish with hand sanding 120 and that
should be plenty to get rid of the
scratches and have a good base for stain
and epoxy fiberglass up in the ends
where this sander may be a little bit
big I might avoid using this sander on
some of the smaller places we'll see how
I feel
most of the scratches from the 60 grit I
like to go over it again with hand
sanding to get those scratches the
scratches from the 80 grit down so
they're just going parallel instead of
being the swirls from the random random
Oracle plus I want to try out my new
flexible sanding pad this is the work of
pad with dust collection looks pretty
I'm going to switch over to my Finnish
sander this finer orbit this is a three
millimeter orbit on here we're going to
continue to use my contour pad that's
all sanded out to 120 I'll do one more
sanding hand sanding with 120 but before
I do that and want to swell out the
grain a little bit just raise the grain
so I have a squirt bottle with water in
it so I'm just going to spritz the whole
thing down make the whole thing wet let
that dry overnight and I'll sand a
handstand with 120 in the morning
so I'm almost done with sanding now I
just showed you wetting out the wood
which will expand any compression areas
from sanding or pulling staples or
whatever may have happened but I'm
letting that dry and in the next episode
we'll finish up the sanding stain the
boat but leave the bottom unstained and
then I think in the next episode we
should also be able to get right into
fiberglassing we'll see how long it
takes and how long the episode is trying
to keep it reasonable so if you're
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next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling