Glassing - Petrel Build - E9

Today I fiberglass. In this video I talk about the cleaning up stain bleed-through and then get fiberglassing. I discuss the time line of glassing and what I use for fill coat

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

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hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade in this bill I'm
working on a petrel love stripped old
petrol which is a 17 foot
high-performance sea kayak and building
this for a customer if you are just
tuning into this series
this build is something I actually did
over a year ago so this footage is a
little bit old I'm just now getting
around to editing it and I've just
stained the boat and I'm now ready to
fiberglass so let's watch how I did that
so it's 9:00 in the morning on glass and
day and I've got the heat cranked up
it's starting to warm up in here I need
to roll out the glass and you know get
ready to apply some epoxy before I can
do that there's a few places on my
accent strips here where I get a little
bit of bleed in under the tape I want to
clean that up I'm really pleased with
how the CA glue resists worked on the
accent stripes on the deck those came
out perfect just a tape alone here on
the hull was not bad you know most of it
is perfectly clean but there's a few
places was a little bleed through think
maybe in the future I will use the CA
glue on the whole length I just didn't
feel like doing that given the length of
the scene there but a little bit of prep
work and then I'll be glassing so here I
have a little bit of bleed through here
I have a little chisel that I put a
little bit of sandpaper on it doesn't
look like much it's a little bit 120
grit sandpaper it's about the width of
the strip this bleed through is very
thin it doesn't take much to actually
get rid of it so I'm just going to come
here the sandpaper
doesn't make it go away completely but
it really feeds it down so we'll be
really unnoticeable
is around 10:30 now
I don't have to get everything ready
the hole first and then the deck
it's just past 11:30 depth the hull and
the deck done and the temperature in
here is about 80 degrees I'm not sure
what that is
Celsius but pretty warm it's wet out
nicely everything looks good they go to
crunch up and so I have a nice matte
finish I don't want it to look glassy
she's got a few glossy spots but that's
okay it's all looking good I will
probably come back right after lunch and
give this a fill cup so it's just about
2 o'clock now so the epoxies had a
couple hours secure it's a little bit
harder than it needs to be but it's
still soft I'm going to put fill coats
and both the hull on the deck but the
hull is just going to get a light-filled
coat I'm going to put another layer of
glass on it later after it put put the
deck and Hall together and get the stems
on put another layer of glass on on the
deck I'm going to give it a full fill
coat actually trying to bury the weed I
will spread some epoxy on the hall and
then squeegee it off and with the deck I
will brush it on heavy and triangle a
nice levels coat on let's just get to it
looks like the camera stopped recording
about 10 minutes ago maybe but got the
full cone over the whole deck I hit it
with the blowtorch to pop bubbles level
it out nicely the hall has a squeegee
down on bilko again this is just to
start to fill the weave so when I put
the next coat of cloth on I can sand it
without sanding into the glass otherwise
after I squeegeed it to a matte finish
there's deep pores in between the fibers
of the yarns that you can't get to with
the sandpaper and so when you go to D
closet and get a better mechanical bond
you can't sand it sufficiently to really
get them you know it's fine but not as
good as it could be so by putting this
spill coat on I have filled down into
the pores in the texture I might just
touch the top of the wheel but I won't
be sanding down just a note here
I used web system 105 resin and 207
hardener for the fill coat I find it
levels better than mas that I used to
wet out the cloth I found the mas West
out the cloth really nicely doesn't have
a lot of smell and when I go to do the
fill Co I just find the 207 works a
little bit better in that application
so that's an overview of the
fiberglassing process to recap I rolled
out the cloth I smoothed out the
wrinkles pulling on the cloth a little
bit and brushing it down with a chip
brush and then I wet out the cloth using
mas low viscosity epoxy resin I let that
set up for a little while
and then I applied a Philco on the hull
I applied a sort of light fill coat that
I squeegeed on just enough to fill up
the pores of the texture of the fabric
and on the deck I did a heavy fill coat
where I really tried to fill it up
completely in in the step towards the
final finish so for the wet out I used
an MAS epoxy some call it mas and on the
fill coat I use West's systems using the
207 hardener with the 105 resin I find
the MAS wets out the cloth more easily
and doesn't smell much I used to working
with it and does a beautiful job but I
find for the fill coats mas works fine
if that's what you got use it it works
great but the west's system seems to
level out a little bit better makes a
smoother finish which just requires a
little less sanding when it comes time
to do that you know the difference is
minimal but it makes a difference so
that's why I did that so in the next
episode I will work on the combing and
start to clean up the inside you'll see
how far I get again this is a video from
over a year ago I forget what did I even
have in the can so how long the video is
depends on what I've got there so if you
enjoyed this episode and you like seeing
how these boats go together I really
appreciate your support any kind of
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and that boat includes the offsets for
this petrel design so if you want to
build one of these petrels that's a
great resource you get the book as 2295
something like that and that includes
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until the next episode again thanks for
watching and happy paddling