Let Me Strip For You - microBootlegger Sport - E12

Continuing with the stripping. Using a robo-bevel to fit the strips.

Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade

Music: Casey Don't You Fret by: Dan Lebowitz

the glue had overnight to dry so I was
able to unclamp the brackets and peel
off the tape and today we're gonna do
more stripping I'm gonna strip for you
and for some reason YouTube finds out a
little bit salacious and potentially
unsuitable for advertisers each time I
post a video I need to have it go for
manual review I can't think of anything
less salacious with than what I'm doing
here but we will strip for you today
I've got one more strip here to add of
the body color which will be the deck of
the boat before we get up to the
waterline which is right about here this
this mark right there is the waterline
and so we'll start out by beveling this
strip with the Robo bevel getting it
prepared for the next strip to come on I
did after stripping off the tape and the
unclamping the brackets I went came by
with some hot melt glue and just checked
if any of these strips were loose on the
forms and I put a little dot of glue
under it I was having some trouble
yesterday with my hot melt glue it was
didn't seem to be sticking well to the
forms and so I switched to a different
stick and see if that will be any
stickier if I continue to have problems
with the hot melt adhesive I will just
strip the green tape off and glue
directly to the forms it makes things
harder to release but at least those
strips will stay in place so before I do
the Robo bevel I'm just going to come
through and look for any glue
squeeze-out from that hot melt glue it
just applied so the process of beveling
here use the form use the top edge of
this strip we want to have the next
strip come in and fits flush to there so
no gap right in there
and so again we're going to take and
bevel this top edge so it is Square to
the edge of the forum there so I have
this little shoulder plane that goes in
the Robo bevel and if I run that along
the top edge keeping it flush against
the forum there so flush against that
surface that will take and peel a little
bit of material off the corner and start
squaring that up but it's hard to hold
this you know it's easy to hold it here
right here where we've got the forum but
my Robo bevel is bridges from this forum
to the next forum and so in between the
forms I still have registration on those
forms so I still have the forms to guide
me as I go from one form to the next so
by taking the Robo bevel along here
we're carving a little bit off the top
of the strip we put the little shoulder
plane in the tool same thing happens
feeling top edge off it can be hard to
see what each pass is doing if we put
some witness marks here and then run the
tool across you see we're peeling off
the edge closest to the forum here where
the forms pretty round you need to do
quite a bit of shaping to that top edge
so each time we go we peel that witness
line back a little bit more
so we're done when that witness line
disappears so we're almost there
I put a strip down now you still see a
little bit of that witness line and
we've got a slight gap there now the
witness line is pretty much gone you put
this down here it's nice and tight so
the Robo bevel bridges in between from
one form to the next or just manually
holding this plane it's hard to estimate
that angle in between the forms roll the
roll bevel lays up against the forms and
lets you get the angle between the forms
if you need to twist the tool a little
bit that's why the holes in it make it
so the whole tool will twist so as a
bevel rolls from one form to the next
the tool estimates that angle in between
it's important to keep these strips down
tight against the forms while we're
beveling it because if it Springs out
that'll change the relative angle that
we're creating with the tool and make it
so if it's not quite accurate
the bottom of the Robo bevel this is
what we run against the strip and it's
got a curve to it so it can deal with
the curving shape of the kayak if it
goes perfectly straight the tool ends up
bridging over the strip and the edge of
the plane does not end up cutting into
the material so it's important to have
this curve here if it was simply
straight the tool would not work
I keep my eye right on this window where
the tool is to make sure it's actually
cutting and everything's tight up
against the forms and tight down against
the surface of the strip you might need
to lift or lower the end of the tool a
little bit to keep it cutting directly
on that blade these are very cute little
tools made by Veritas well well made
good quality steel on the blade they are
tiny little tools and one consequence of
that is these tiny little thumb screws
here that tighten up the blade and then
just the in and out location of the
blade it's all adjustable but they're
hard to get your fingers on and get them
good and tight if you if they get loose
the blade comes out of position and
doesn't cut as well
it's also very easy for chips to get
jammed up in the throat here got a poke
them out with a pencil that happens even
with the big bigger shoulder planes it's
just a small space in there they curl up
and get caught up in there
so when everything's good you can take
just a scrap piece of strip is another
way to check it out should be nice and
tight just like that when you're happy
with your bevels grab the next strip
we're counting down eight seven six five
circle side fort hall notice we still
have our reference lines all lined up
and the writing is all in order here so
I was keeping everything matched up I'm
grabbing the strip number five with a
circle on it portside bring it over give
it a test fit make sure everything makes
these are reference lines here those
line up strip cuts down nice and tight
you might want a little bit of a twist
here and just hold it in place briefly
with the clamp I need a little bit more
bevel there a little bit more bevel
there you see I can close it up by
tilting it this way make sure it's not
just some gum on it or something all
right that's better
it's fitting right up tight against the
form can't really close it up but
twisting it so we're good so with the
strip all fit the bevel good it's time
to put some glue on it one of my viewers
can inglis of toronto sent me this glue
dispenser I think he got it from the
valley tools or something like that I
haven't used it before it looks like
it's pretty good just got a little built
in cap a very small tip on it and we'll
see how this works so we'll take the new
strip off
and put a little glue on the inner stem
and then just run a light bead down the
top of the strip again we don't want to
add much glue here just enough to get a
little squeeze out and this seems to do
a nice job it's a nice clean little
bleep bead right where you need it no
point in putting more glue on that's
necessary we just want a little bit of
squeeze out no point using more glue
than we need we just want a little bit
of squeeze out if you get big drips
coming down the side you just put too
much and the key to that is a small tip
like this has apparently these tips are
replaceable but it does have a good cap
attached to the dispenser so hopefully
it won't get too gummed up with glue so
after running a bead down take the cap
put it back on we'll give this thing a
little bit more tests see how it works
yeah we got the glue on there put the
strip back up get our reference lines
aligned here a little clamp on it get
the other end situated and working out
from the middle get the brackets on a
little bit of squeeze out a little bit
of squeeze out there get the bracket on
clamp it down these brackets I cut with
two unequal legs I want as much surface
area as I can so when I clamp I the
bracket stays in place but sometimes you
got a little narrow opening that's hard
to reach into so the narrower leg is
useful when I'm getting down into
narrower spots I think I can still use
them now continue down with the brackets
on the other direction
I meant to heat up this end here and
give it a little pre Bend
I forgot to do that it will work just
fine once we've got the brackets on come
back with the tape so again we're gonna
get a little bit of squeeze out along
that edge a little bit coming out right
there get the edges align we have a
little bit of excess hanging off the end
here beyond the inner stem I'm gonna
just trim that back and we don't want
anything interfering with the next strip
coming in on this side and sell this
little bits going to get in the way so I
can either take my knife and just
Whittle that back or I can take plain
get it back out of the way so now the
next trip coming on over top here will
not have any interference from this
I had a clamp on here to get this tight
on this side but obviously a clamp here
will be in the way of laying down the
new strip so we'll see if we can
accomplish the same thing with a little
bit of tape this is actually all going
to get cut off when we go to put the
outer stem on we're going to trim this
back to where this is about 3/4 of an
inch thick and so all of this gets
trimmed off I could frankly I could
shoot a staple in here right here and it
would end up being cut off so it would
be okay to shoot a staple on there if I
just needed something to work as a quick
clamp you get this in here for now and
then when we come in on the other side
we will trim that tape off I'll now
prepare this side for the next strip so
beveling it and getting it ready to go
it's bought right in here a little bit
of twist to the strip Robo bevels just a
little bit awkward to get into that
tight spot there there's a lot going on
holding it like this probably works it
does work pretty well so again we're
looking for strip number five this time
without a circle so eight seven six five
and this is starboard side
to the dry fit try the hi bot again
and put the strip back on
it is helpful to get the strip up onto
the where it's gonna go before putting
all the clamps on because just having it
laying out can end up putting some
twists on it and making it hard to get
these these joints good nice and tight
it's important to get good clamping
pressure on the glue the glue wants to
rise up and float the strip off and so
if you don't maintain the clamping
pressure on it ended up with looser
joints time for lunch and I'm hungry so
I will just leave the brackets on leave
the tape on instead of coming through
with the hot melt glue the brackets and
tape will provide better clamping
pressure and then if I need the glue
afterwards after everything is dry after
lunch I'll put some glue on it as
and now all the brackets and clamps can
come off and I'll peel off the tape
so if we look at this last strip my
intention was to make this about even
with the waterline and it's pretty close
but due to the shape of the boat when I
started out with the point here there
was parallel of the waterline and add
strips up on top of it here you see the
strips start curving over we're down
here the strips are going almost
straight up and down as a result this
strip here is higher relative to that
waterline then the same strip is down
here relative to that waterline if you
measure right here the top edge of the
strip is that about one centimeter where
if you go back a few stations we're now
here at one and a half centimeters and
you keep on going back even further here
we're almost 2 centimeters and so as you
see the the strip because it curls over
here a little bit ends up not actually
being parallel to the water line and
this is fine you know I could just
switch to my bottom color and put maybe
put some accents in here and it would
look really sharp there'd be nothing
wrong with the way it looks but it
doesn't actually correspond to the water
line which is kind of cool to have an
actual design water line so this is this
line here is where it's supposed to
where the boats supposed to float when
somebody about my size is sitting in it
and so you know a good way to see how
well I did with that is actually to have
that water line dripped into the boat
and be an integral part of the
construction of the boat and so I'd like
to make the top edge of the strips here
actually follow that water line so the
way I go about that is with this handy
little jig here the whole secret to this
jig is this top edge here right here is
perfectly straight so even though
there's a notch in it it goes straight
across from here to here so if I line up
something on this
this point here is lined up with that
line so if I take this jig here and lay
it down against that line like that I
can now transfer that line to the
outside of the boat
by making a little mark with my pencil
right there and work my way down the
length of the boat transferring that
line from the inside form to the outside
of the strip obviously this doesn't fit
into there on this side but I've got the
shorter leg I can do the same thing
place this in there and make my mark
right there doesn't fit there either so
I end up with a series of marks down the
length of the boat now I've grabbed one
of my spare strips here and I'm going to
essentially connect the dots here the
thing to remember here is these dots
aren't perfect I've done my best to put
them exactly where they need to be but
chances are they're a little bit messed
up so they're not gospel I'm just gonna
use those as guidelines what I want to
make is a perfectly horizontal water
line one that's going to be straight
down where the water is when the boats
floating on an even keel so I'm going to
take this strip lay it up here and I'm
putting it above the mark that way when
I put a clamp on it like this the clamps
not in the way of making a pencil mark
if I end up putting it down here
although it would be easier to see the
mark I have a clamp there and putting a
making a pencil line here I'd have to
stop and lift the pencil over there not
a big deal but if having a good sharp
line here makes a difference in how well
you're going to cut the line so I'm
going to start out by putting a clamp on
every other mark and let the strip fare
itself out in between
so like before with the first strip you
want to get our eye right down on that
line and really be able to eyeball it
and see if there's any wiggle waggle x'
whole way across getting irate down on
that line looking for irregularities so
anything that looks a little bit higher
a little bit low and often all it takes
is just releasing the clamp and see
where it naturally goes that's better
but now it looks a little high and we're
interested in the bottom edge of the
strip the lighting makes this the top
edge is a little bit more distinct but
we're interested in where the bottom
edge is going carefully looking for any
humps or valleys anything that looks a
little bit out of straight and what
straight means in the context of this of
a boat like this is a straight in one
plane so it'll be a fair curve in
another plane
and at the bow I didn't have any marks
to go by all I can do is eyeball it as
Jimmy direst uh says if it looks
straight it is straight and what is
meant by that is you know we're not
building spaceships here we're building
a kayak this water line serves no
function it's purely aesthetic so the
only problem with it when it's not
straight is somebody sees it and says
that's not straight and so if it looks
straight it's straight enough and so
we're just gonna try and make this fall
on a nice straight line and it tends to
curve up at the ends here I do have a
little bit of a guide on the form here
but it's easier to just place a clamp on
it and try and get a nice straight line
that way you know I could put a laser
line on here you know take half an hour
to set up the laser line but again all
we're looking for is something that
looks straight because again it's only
aesthetics and the statics are only what
your eye can see and so doing our best
to make a nice straight line there we're
going to be good the key to getting an
accurate cut is to have a good line
that's easy to follow easy to see and is
precise you don't need to cut a groove
into the boat with our sharp pencil but
if we make it sharp enough that you can
get a nice crisp line that'll be a lot
easier to follow so when you go to draw
this line on the boat we don't want to
scribble it we don't want to have a lot
of lines and have to figure out which
line we're trying to follow we want one
line that's nice sharp and crisp it's
not a scribble it's a nice crisp
straight line and so just running along
the bottom edge of the strip I'm
twisting the pencil as I go to keep it
so it's sharp so I'm not getting this
broad nib I want a nice crisp
line the line drawn we can remove the
clamps and our spline out of the way now
we have a line there it's going to be
easy to follow visible some places it's
nearly on top of the scene between the
strips they seem like a waste to have
even installed this strip here because
I've got like a sixteenth or less of
strip of that strip left in some places
here but as it goes down here it gets
wider and wider and so up here we've got
a good quarter inch of the strip left
this last strip was really the reason
for putting it there was so we'd have
this material right at the end and we'd
end up with a nice straight waterline
I'm gonna cut the line with this
Japanese pull saw one feature it has is
this little woodpecker tooth that lets
me do a plunge cut and I'm doing I'm
gonna start at this end but not all the
way at the stem I don't want to cut into
the stem and being that I'm right-handed
it's much more comfortable to cut down
from this on this side from the stern
towards the bow than it is to cut from
the bow towards the stern I'm going to
do a plunge cut right about here cut all
the way down to the bow then I'll cut
this I'll cut this strip off the inner
stem it also helps to leave this glued
to the stem while we're cutting so this
ends not flapping in the breeze
so I'll start my plunge cut I'm going to
cut right above that line
just to saw through until I get it
started okay now it's through so now we
start to do longer strokes again one is
just above the line the more material
you leave above the line the more you
have to remove so don't overdo it you
get find a place where you're
comfortable and you're pretty sure you
can maintain and start cutting this saw
wants to do nice long strokes so when
I'm going around the forms I do short
choppy strokes but otherwise I'm doing
nice long strokes letting the side of
the work I'm not pressing very hard I'm
only holding on to it with my middle
finger and my thumb I'm pointing down
the length of the shaft with my index
finger and I'm holding all the way at
the end of the handle by holding at the
end of the handle it doesn't take much
to keep the saw accurate if I need to
make a little adjustment up or down it's
easy to do just a little adjustment the
closer more choked up you are on the
handle the less margin of error you have
any little move will make a bigger
deflection so it's easier to hold it
from the end and again we don't need to
death grip it we're not gripping it hard
we're just holding on to the end and
letting the saw through the work
if it starts to chatter like that two
things if the strips not supported in
between the stations so just a hand on
it will keep it from chattering a little
bit and also ease up on your pressure a
little bit cut a little bit lower angle
as you get around the form we don't need
to cut into the form so shorter strokes
to get past the form one thing I'm going
to talk about more with the tools hand
tools like this is every time you're
making the tool cut be intentional about
it know exactly why you're making that
cut you're not a motor that just makes
this saw move your goal is to make and
do something that improves the bow makes
it makes another step of progress
towards your final goal of a finished
boat so think about every time you pull
the saw is it aligned with the line am I
going to hit the forms everything you're
doing you know we don't want to waste
energy just sort of running our hands
back and forth I'm cutting sort of
horizontally here so instead of aiming
down perpendicular to the strip I'm
cutting more to the horizontal line here
just to be sure
I don't over cut it I'm going to come
back and clean this up with the Robo
bevel when I'm done and so I'll get the
exact angle I want with that tool with
the saw I'm just roughing it out
and we don't want to cut into the inner
stem here so I'm gonna start bringing
the saw parallel to the face of the wood
and break off the strip so I have this
little bit left to cut and cutting it
like this is awkward it's hard to see
what's going on and I don't want to cut
into that inner stem so getting down
here next to it from below or I can see
and hold the saw in a comfortable
position get that cut started to now
come down parallel try and cut in
towards the inner stem and break that
off and that little chip we will come
and deal with later so I didn't get as
far as I wanted to today partly because
I decided to go ahead and be anal about
the water line here I could have just
started adding accents on top of the
strips I had installed and then go on
from there we're doing the anal job on
this boat and trying to make everything
sort of as good as we can and so I'm
trying to make that water line of real
meaningful water line that actually
corresponds to how the boat will float
so that took a little bit of extra time
and then of course I will try and edit
around this but I cut the whole other
side to the water line with the
microphone dead the battery for the
microphone died so I had no audio for
that oh that will be handled all in the
editing and hopefully it'll all look
good to you so tomorrow I will clean up
these edges playing them down make them
perfectly straight add some accents and
hopefully we'll start to get some strips
for the bottom of the boat and we'll get
that started tomorrow it'll be a little
bit of work with the Robbo bevel and
some other rabbit planes to true up this
water line get it perfectly straight and
things will look awesome I think so
please post your questions to the
comments I really appreciate hearing
what you have to say in answering your
questions if you haven't done it yet hit
like it give me a thumbs up if you you'd
like to subscribe and want to see the
rest of these episodes
it's subscribe my patreon supporters see
these videos a couple days before the
general public so if you're impatient
want to see what's going on head over to
my patreon page and give me a minor
donation and you'll get full access to
all the videos that as soon as I get
them done until tomorrow thanks for
watching and happy paddling